Happy Valentine's Day to Us!
Celebrating the love of friendship in Siena, Italia
02/14/2009 - 02/14/2009
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Buona sera ragazzi!
So I've just been hanging around Rome the last couple of weekends, and Valentine's Day was coming up, so Genevieve and I decided to treat ourselves to a day trip to Siena. Siena is a cute little hill town in Tuscany. It's one of Rick Steves' favorite Italian destinations, and also has been very popular so far among our friends, so we decided to go check it out!

We took the Metro to the Termini train station, bought a ticket for 13 €, and were soon on-board ready to start our day's adventure. The train was quite nice, and since it was still early in the morning, Genevieve and I quickly fell asleep for the first 2 hour leg of our trip. Luckily, we woke up in time to realize we needed to get off the train and transfer to another. After some confused exchanges in broken Italian, we figured out where we needed to go, and hopped on a darling little "Minuetto" train to take us up into the hills. I couldn't fall asleep on the last hour leg of our journey because the scenery was so beautiful! Even though it was still winter and all the vineyards were brown, the Tuscan countryside really does look as breathtaking as it seems in the pictures.
Once we arrived at the Siena train station, we knew we had to take a bus up to the city itself, so we got tickets. But when we walked outside the station, we realized we had NO idea which bus to take, which stop we needed, etc... At this point, we realized it might have been a good idea to have actually printed out a map of the city before we came, but we had assumed, a tiny little hill-town, how hard could it be? Well readers, let me tell you, it was pretty darn confusing. I asked a woman standing nearby which bus takes you to Siena, and she told me, "Well all of them do!" (duh.) "But you don't want this line, it goes to the hospital." Great! I thought, they all go to Siena, because we're in Siena, so we decided to just hop on the next bus that came our way, and figured eventually we'd run into something important. The #10 bus was pulling up, so we got on. We figured out that things didn't seem quite right when the bus went down the hill instead of up the hill, and the next thing we knew we arrived at the hospital! We didn't want to get off the bus at some random stop and be even more lost, so we just stayed on board, and passed the university, the best-western, etc... Eventually, the bus came to a stop in the middle of some random residential area, and the bus driver turned the buss off! Other people were still on board, so we assumed it would turn back on eventually. After our driver's smoke break 15 minutes later, she started the bus back up and turned around. At this point, we knew we weren't going to get anywhere on Bus #10, so we got back off at the train station, and hoped to have better luck the second time around! At least we got a wonderful bus tour of the outskirts of Siena, I'm sure most people don't get that opportunity when they visit!
After finding the "urban" bus pick-up spot, we got on the correct bus, and rode up to Piazza del Sale, where we got off and walked the rest of the way into the city. Siena is a really, really old walled city, so only VIPs get special privileges to drive around up there. Siena is the postcard perfect hill-town you expect it to be. As we walked down the narrow cobblestone streets, there were all kinds of specialty shops lining the way. At certain points, the streets would open up to a piazza or church.

The first sight we ran into was the Duomo. It's a huge cathedral known for it's black & white striped marble. We decided to take a look inside and spent lots of time there marveling at all the cool things to see. This is a very unique church!
Of course, just as we were walking up to the Duomo, the hour struck and bells started ringing!
Siena is most famous for the Piazza del Campo. Of course, I didn't know any of this until after I got home and looked it up! There is a nice element of surprise though when you discover things in an unknown city that look big and important! In this Piazza is a HUGE tower. It's so huge it's hard to fit in a picture! The tower is part of the Palazzo Pubblico, which is a gothic town hall that was completed in 1342. The bell tower is called Torre del Mangia. It's the 2nd highest medieval tower ever built in Italy! The Sienese claim that their Piazza is the best piazza in Italy, and it's hard to disagree. It has a very inviting feel and cute little fountain! Everyone was hanging out there on Valentine's Day, and we joined them, sitting in the middle of the square to eat our packed lunches. After lunch, I worked on sketching the Tower, while Genevieve enjoyed people watching. Suddenly, a cloud settled over the square and everyone, including us, emptied out because of the cold! We walked into the Palazzo Pubblico, which has been turned into an impromptu art gallery and museum.


Since it was Valentine's Day, we decided to treat ourselves to a special chocolate treat! As we were walking toward the Piazza del Campo, we spotted a very fancy looking Bar/Bakery that everyone was going to. A bakery in Italy is called a Pasticceria, and this one looked extremely popular. Everyone was there today! I saw this very delicious-looking chocolate thing in the window, and thinking it was a big slice of brownie with nuts, we went in to get ourselves one! We waited in a very long line for this chocolate delicacy, it was 27€ for a kilo! We bought a tiny 3€ slice to split, and realized the pastry wasn't a brownie at all! It seemed to be like a hybrid of chocolate fudge and fruitcake, with nuts. It was rock hard, and while trying to break off a piece, I managed to get powdered sugar ALL OVER my clothes! We also couldn't peel off the white wrapper/paper on the bottom without breaking our nails, so, for all I know I enjoyed eating paper on Valentine's Day! After we got home, we did a little research, and found out that what we ate is actually a Sienese specialty called Panforte. It dates all the way back to the 13th century! Literally, panforte means "strong bread" which refers to the spicy flavor. The original name of panforte was "panpepato" (peppered bread), due to the strong pepper used in the cake. The process of making panforte involves dissolving sugar in honey along with melted chocolate. Various nuts, fruits and spices are mixed together with flour and cocoa, and the entire mixture is baked in a shallow pan. Sources say that the Crusaders carried panforte with them on their quests since it was a durable confection, and they touted the usefulness of panforte in surviving sieges. We also found out later that the Nannini family is one of the oldest in Siena, and are world-renowned for their panforte! So not only did we accidentally eat a Sienese specialty, we were also partaking of a piece of culinary history!


We decided to wander around Siena for a while, and ran into the Casa di Santa Caterina. St. Catherine is not only Siena's patron saint, but was also chosen as the patroness saint of Italy, and of all of Europe! She was the daughter of tradesman, the 24th of 25 children, and when she was only 8 years old she devoted herself to God. She received divine visions and stigmata. St. Catherine's outspokenness helped persuade the Pope to return the seat of the papacy to Rome. She was a very politically involved person. The cloister of her house was probably my most favorite experience of the day. It was beautiful, peaceful, and had stunning views of the hillside.

Her death in Rome is probably one of the most interesting stories I've heard. After her death, the Sienese tried to steal her body and return it to Siena, but only managed to make off with her head. So her head, and one of her fingers, are displayed in the San Domenico church in Siena, while the rest of her body is buried in Rome. The preserved head of St. Catherine is displayed in a gilded tabernacle on the altar of a chapel within this huge church. I had prepared myself to see her head, but what I wasn't prepared to see was her finger, in a gold stand that made it look like a fancy birthday candle or something, which was right in front of my face!
For dinner, we wanted to go to Rick Steves' favorite little restaurant, Trattoria La Torre. Our friends had gone there before us and talked about how reasonable and delicious it was; they have the day's freshly-made pasta presented on a table out front as you walk in! When we walked in, however, they told us that the "cucina è chiusa", (the kitchen was closed!) and wouldn't open back up until 7pm. Darn those Italians and their late eating schedules! Our train was leaving at 6pm, so we had to eat at a touristy place, but while we were there we asked the owner what the best thing on his menu was, and he suggested the pici, a Sienese specialty. We were all for Sienese specialties! I hold the firm conviction that the local choice is always going to be the best tasting thing on the menu. Our pasta came out piping hot and delicious! We tried the pici arrabiata, which was like a thickly-rolled spaghetti noodle bathed in tomato sauce with bacon and ginger. It was a strange, but tasty, combination!

Now that we had finally figured out the bus system, it was easy to find our way back to the train! After our little panforte fiasco, Genevieve and I had a taste for some real Valentine's Day chocolates, so we bought each other Baci Perugina at the train station bar. "Baci" in english, means kisses. These are the Italian version of a Hershey's kiss, with a nice fat hazelnut on top. They come in cute little foil wrappers, with a love quote tucked in. My notes read: "Never close your lips to one to whom you have opened your heart" and "The woman does not exist of whose beauty all men shall agree upon".

After a wonderful day exploring Siena, we wound down on the 3hr train ride back to Rome.
Hope you all had a nice Valentine's Day as well!
<3 Alyssa
Posted by alyin2000 02/17/2009 09:28 Archived in Italy Comments (1)
































